Flooding Problems

I heard from Prem that the flooding in Siem Reap and Kampong Thom provinces is extreme. He has personally been unable to travel to the market for days at a time and only recently was able to get online. The water level at the old market was up to 1 meter high at one point. That's incredibly high for a very flat place. The government even bulldozed a section of the new road that was unfortunately trapping water so it could flow out. Apparently it helped, but they still have major problems.

Poor families are in need of food and basic necessities. According to Prem the Red Cross is working in the area but he hasn't seen other NGOs or organizations like the World Food Program kick into gear yet.

I encourage you to consider donating to the Red Cross. You can also read more about the situation here:
http://www.phnompenhpost.com/index.php/2011092951875/National-news/flooded-kingdom.html

Two Items Gone!

I sold two items since my announcement at the Discovery United Methodist Church in Hutto on Sunday. If you haven't already checked out the Bicycles Project at www.buildingcambodia.org then get on over there as fast as you can!

New Project: Bicycles

We're raising money to purchase bicycles for one of the villages. Please visit my project page here: http://www.buildingcambodia.org/bicyclesproject.html. I'm selling a large number of items to raise money. With luck we can change the lives of many village children.

New Wiring

Oh, you thought I was done?

One of my last activities in Khnar Tmei was the kickoff of a rewiring project for the church buildings. Any time you touch bare metal on a computer you would get a rather powerful dose of 220 volts. The problem: no grounding. After getting Mr. Somnang Bin (pictured, he is a recommended electrician from the family that runs the guesthouse) onsite to do a quote, he pointed out a number of issues, including the long connection going from the church to the pastor's house. This was done to save money and not pay a hookup fee. Unfortunately, it was causing major problems.

The one day project for him stretched into a multi-day affair. It was that bad. Now, the church has a central circuit breaker, new internal wiring, coverage for exposed wires, new switches and outlets, and a new high-capacity line going to the pastor's house for the main hookup. Parts and Labor: about $350. That's a DEAL.

Oh, and I'm STILL not done. The paperwork for Building Cambodia continues. I'm partway into IRS Form 1023. I have three pages of questions now...

Pictures

Browse through the pictures from this year's trip here:

Cambodia 2011

Catching Up

It took me a few days to recover from that extreme travel. I was too groggy to write up the beginnings of my case study. I also have some UN reports I need to review with good reference material.

Over the next few days I'll post pictures and supplemental information about my trip. I also have corporate work to do and will bore you with some details on what it takes to start a non-profit corporation. IRS tax form blog, here we come!

I Guess That Was Rest

The Asiana lounge is quite nice. I'm in the "Business Class" section. I can only imagine what the "First Class" area looks like. Here they have free showers (fully stocked with amenities and very luxurious), relaxation chairs overlooking the tarmac, a business center with extremely fast Internet, a plethora of magazines, and even a full buffet including beer and Diet Coke.

I found a bench and wedged myself up against the wall using my replacement set of clothes as a pillow. The sleep was fast and fractured. At one point I think someone started playing the grand piano they have in the center, and another time a flight attendant woke me to make sure I wasn't on some flight departing soon.

After a shower and some email, I'll try the lunch buffet. If everything is covered in Kimchi (it's like Korean Sauerkraut) then I'll go to my standby of Burger King. I get the feeling I'm going to be somewhat messed up when I get to San Francisco. Oh well, that's the life if buying super-cheap plane tickets to help people in a third world country. It's worth the couple days of stumbling and hallucinations.

So Tired

The airport transit hotel is full, and it doesn't make a lot of sense to hike all the way to the other end of this massive airport just for 4 hours of rest IF they have a room open up at 10am local time. I don't sleep well on the plane if at all, so I'm worn out already. The prospect of hanging out for about 7 more hours isn't thrilling, even in the Asiana Lounge (I had a coupon).

Next time you have a long flight remember that it could be worse. I usually measure my travel time in hours... not days.

In the Airport - Last Khmer Language

I make a strong effort to learn as much Khmer as I can. The local people get a kick out of it when you try, and they look downright shocked when you nail a word or phrase with the right accent. Sitting in the airport is the last time I get to use my limited vocabulary. I picked up a few great new words this trip, and I'm saddened that I won't get to use them for another year.

This is also a time for reflection. I like to ponder the work I've done and consider how I can do more. This trip was a learning experience first and foremost. I now know more about the healthcare system than most people, even locals. I'm not an expert, but it doesn't take an Ivy League Scholar to see big, gaping holes in the sector.

We made great strides on the incorporation front. I look forward to helping in that way to build momentum for larger projects. After all, I see big challenges that need to be addressed.

The Last Day is Typically the Busiest

Perhaps it's the looming deadline, but I always seem to have a very busy and productive day when there are only hours to go before my first flight heading home. Today we coordinated to get a replacement computer for Khnar Tmei. I was bothered that the grounding cable was missing, and anytime you touch bare metal in that place you are greeted with a few unwelcome volts. It's quite jarring and probably frying the PCs. So, we got an electrician onsite to quote out replacement wiring and a new grounding plate.

I learned from a few experiences that your labor and materials costs should be roughly equal when doing a construction project. I was pleased to see the same ratio hold true for this rewiring effort. Here's the work involved:

• Replace main line going from the church buildings to the pastor's house (probably 100m)
• Install a circuit breaker panel
• Run new wiring circuits to each zone in the building (probably 6-8 outlets)
• Replace wall outlets and switches
• Test and verify that you don't leap into the air when touching a PC

Parts and materials will run about $300. Think about that. We're rewiring an entire building for less than what we pay for a high-end light fixture.

Deanna and Mony will see that project through. Right now, I have to pack and get ready to board a red-eye flight to Korea. That's South Korea. I don't think I want to visit North Korea after seeing the surly gentlemen in Phnom Penh.

Cambodian Growth through North Korea?

The In-Flight magazine on board Cambodia Angkor Airlines had an interesting article about foreign investment in the country. During the first 4 months of 2011, foreign investment rose 176% to over $2.5b in capital. That by itself is amazing, but the breakdown by country was shocking.

North Korea is in the top 10 with $17m in investment.

Last I checked, that country didn't have much money left after paying for military, nukes, and the whims of Kim Jong Il. The story from local people is somewhat different. They recognize that North Korea is a strange and isolated place, but the stance isn't aggressive. "Oh yes, they have a nice embassy just down the road" said our local driver. Feeling intrigued, we decided to do a Drive-By.

We approached the embassy and it was obvious by the two guards leering at us that they didn't want visitors. So, I rolled down the window and took a few pictures as we drove slowly. If we had stopped, I'm sure the police would have been called. If they found out we were Americans, I'm certain there would have been trouble. So, we rolled on by.

Later on I heard that some of the local North Korean restaurants are actually run by South Koreans...

One More Day

I get on a plane bound for Seoul in about 24 hours. At 11:45 pm local time tomorrow I begin the trek back to the US.

Tomorrow will be a lot of tying loose ends. I have a PC that needs to be replaced at Khnar Tmei and the shop is taking an unusually long time. I also have Day 3 of Internet class. I found out today that I need to pick up a book on "Unicode Khmer Font" because that's what the Khmer version of Google uses. Who knew. After that, it's off to dinner then packing.

One tidbit from the morning: our good friend Ko Sol, now the head chef here at the guesthouse, is amazing at what he does. He asked a friend how to make a local dessert called "Song Cha". Turns out that's the exact same thing at Creme Brulee. He didn't make some dainty little dish of it either. It was a breakfast bowl size portion. OMG. We had some last night, then he made the rest of the batch this morning. For breakfast. I just had Creme Brulee for breakfast!

Busy Schedules

We try to pack in a lot while on the ground in Cambodia. Here's a sampling of our activity:

• Met with the local UNICEF office and found some potential partnerships
• Taught the first Internet class at Kessararam Primary School
• Told my driver to take it easy since he has Dengue Fever
• Took a group of village women to the Silk artisans
• Had an authentic Khmer lunch
• Tried to change the flight for one of our coworkers that connects through Tokyo during the arrival of Typhoon Ma-On. Sorry, no seats available.
• Finalized the logo, stationary, and business cards for our incorporation as Building Cambodia, Inc.

Another tidbit is that I found a news station that I really like: Al Jazeera. I knew they were well respected but I never had any exposure to their broadcasts. After watching it (yes, in English) for some time now, they have excellent reporting and in-depth stories. Give it a whirl: http://english.aljazeera.net/

Pharmacy with a Prescription

One of my compatriots has been coughing a little bit since I arrived. Nothing too extreme, but you can tell that it has been nagging at her a bit. Apparently the doctors in the US gave her a course of antibiotics and it didn't completely clear up the pulmonary issue.

After learning about how the local healthcare system works... I thought I would give it a try.

There's a pharmacy by the old market called "Ucare" that stocks foreign drugs. You can get anything from Listerine branded mouthwash made in Thailand (which I picked up) to generic Viagra from India (we had a good laugh and some conversation after seeing that stocked as an "impulse purchase" at the counter). They sell everything without a prescription. You ask, they sell.

We picked up some expectorant and antibiotic. Not your run-of-the-mill stuff either. I asked for azithromycin (aka Zithromax) and they had many different options. These were French, and checked out as legit. Total price: $13. Yes, for both together.

It's one thing to have a fair amount of education in drug dosage, counter-indications, and the ability to verify medications via Internet search. We're probably in good shape. Based on my interviews so far, I suspect that many local people will not finish their course of medicine or just plain get the wrong thing. Again, Education is the answer.

Education through Entertainment

Education is probably going to be the top solution to the problem of a broken health care system. It seems Education is just about the main tool for anything in this country that needs fixing, but that truth is hard to ignore. We drove past Tuol Sleng this afternoon in Phnom Penh. The road is now paved and massive construction built up since my last visit in 2004. We didn't get out of the car, but it was a stark reminder of how not so long ago there were unimaginable evils happening just around the corner.

So if education is the answer, then how do you reach lots of people? Individual classes are nice and cheap, but their scope is limited. We're incorporating our company and thinking bigger than before, so I sought out Resource Development International. They have a unique education strategy: Children's programming and Karaoke. The shows deliver messages on rather hard hitting topics like HIV, Pornography, waiting until later in life to get married, and more. I've attached a video clip, but you can find more at: http://www.rdic.org/studio-page.php

I plan on summarizing my findings on the trip back to the US, and if education is the answer, then I just may have found a way to deliver it.

Mekong Riverfront View

We arrived in Phnom Penh around noon yesterday. Our drivers had a great time on the plane. They got a kick out of picking out familiar landmarks on the ground and thought it was a great way to travel.

Partway through the flight I told them, "Imagine sitting like this for almost 2 days. That's what it's like to get to the USA." They groaned. I think the luster of travel lost something for them.

One of our first tasks was to find a room. We picked a nice little hotel on the Mekong river. I got a room with a partial riverfront view. Can you see it? It's in the top right corner. For a whopping $35 a night I got the room, cable tv, air con, wireless Internet, and even breakfast. For a true riverfront view, you have to pay $10 more.

We stopped by the American Embassy to see if they had information on their small grant program, but we never made it past the bunker-like checkpoint. The 1" bomb-proof glass and massive steel doors really make a statement. I think that statement is "keep away". After that disappointing experience, we headed to a place called Resource Development International. That post is upcoming. It was extremely interesting.

For now, finishing breakfast, meeting with a man doing agricultural work in a nearby province, and then some fun activity before our return flight.

Road Trip

We try to make some sort of road trip every year, and this time around it will be to the capital city of Phnom Penh. There are several organizations and NGOs there that may be helpful to us, and it's a big town with lots to do. A mix of business and pleasure!

Normally, we would drive. It's about 4 hours because the road is very good, but we don't have a lot of time this year. We opted to look at flying. Cambodia has a domestic airline run in partnership with Vietnam airlines, and they're running some specials. It's a bit more expensive than driving, but it saves time, gas, and it's an experience all by itself.

Plus, we're taking our drivers Mony and Prem. They've never flown.

Our departure is around 11:15 tomorrow morning. I'm looking forward to introducing them to airline travel. I suspect that the flight will be nicer and more luxurious than a standard domestic flight in the US.

I'd like you to re-read that last statement. Let it sink in for a moment.

The Health Care Interviews

This year I'm doing research as my primary activity on the ground. The experience of trying to help a student's father receive care for electrocution stuck with me, but I realized that I don't have background knowledge on how the system works in this country. Essentially, I don't even know what I don't know.

The solution is to learn, and my mechanism of choice is to interview local people. I've already spoken to drivers, hotel staff, hospital staff, and even the man we helped last year. A picture is emerging of a broken system that lacks transparency and delivers care unequally. Not a huge surprise based on my one experience. One of the most telling quotes is nearly universal from everyone I've talked to: "The number for the hospital is something easy to remember, but I just can't quite think of it right now."

While talking to Toni (my student) and his family, an amazing fact emerged. His father returned to Cambodia in 1979 right after the Khmer Rouge lost power (remember, they were still a force in the country for nearly 10 more years). At that time, he was working with an international healthcare care agency, and acted as the director of the regional hospital and governor of the state from 1979 to 1981.

My jaw dropped.

I have a standard question I ask people near the end of my interview designed to wrap up and tease out high priority issues. "If you could change one thing about health care in Cambodia, what would it be?" Some people are stumped at first, but Toni's father began rattling off a laundry list. I don't know a lot of Khmer, but he started numbering his points "First.... Second.... Third..." (that's all I could understand), and I knew I was going to get some incredible information.

After most interviews I walk away with more questions than I had before, but that's how this type of process works. I'm gathering as many details as I can from different perspectives. In the end, I should have what I didn't have before: a base of knowledge.

Rude or Incredibly Eccentric?

I'm writing this post as surreptitiously as possible. I'm enjoying a nice breakfast in the restaurant of the hotel, waiting for Pat and Deanna to come downstairs. There aren't many tables, so it's normal to have someone sit at the other end of a 6 person table.

This happened a few minutes ago. No big deal. Then the rest of the family started to appear. Two turned into 4. I'm pretty sure they are French given the obvious language qualities as they chat with each other and the unhealthy fascination they have with the wine rack behind us.

Then it happened. A lady in the group arrived (#5 now) and grabbed my empty tea cup. She walked over and got herself coffee and started to prep it. I guess the bit of tea at the bottom, empty sugar packet, or the fact that it was sitting right next to my breakfast weren't good enough indicators of the fact that she just took my tea!

I'm feeling bold right now. I snapped the picture just to prove it. That's my tea!!!

New Visitor's Center

I dropped off the suture kindly donated by GlobalLinks. Much to my surprise, there was a whole new visitor's center at the hospital. It's a wonderfully decorated office with murals, videos, and other items that share their work. I think I knew it beforehand, but apparently they have been running the hospital since 1999. That's really not a long time with impressive growth and organization. I hope our little endeavor has the same success. The director of the hospital was out sick today, so I'll attempt to speak with him later this week. I guess doctors get ill too!

Next stop after lunch, check on PC equipment and talk to the family who had the electrocution last year on my last day.

Shocking Intrusion of Western Habit

The travel is long but uneventful. My connection in Seoul was lightning fast compared to other years, but having an hour between flights would be considered normal in the US. Thankfully there was a Starbucks right across the gate. I decided to play it safe and avoid some rather unusual Frappucino options. It was nice to sit and watch the rain in Korea. I haven't seen it rain in months.

Arriving in Siem Reap is like coming home in a way, familiar and comforting. No problems with my visa or customs (as usual). Pat, Mony, and Prem were there to greet me and wisk me away to the hotel. "You are big VIP" said Mony, referring to having a private car. I think that loses a bit of it's luster when you see the front seat passenger pay for the parking because the driver's wheel is on the wrong side.

I unpacked and realized that I left a couple items in a suitcase that I was shuffling around. Not a big deal, but an annoyance. Then it hit me that I was still wearing my shoes in my room. Oops! This morning I figured out why:

They are all wearing shoes in the building.

This is a massive change. I'm used to taking them off whenever I enter people's homes or some small shops. I'm certain they did this out of convenience. The large show rack was taking up a ton of space, and I don't think a lot of foreigners are consistent about it. It might be a small thing on the surface, but that's how culture change works.

Today I have a full list of activities. I'll start by dropping off the large box of suture at the hospital. The fun begins!

Next Flight - The Long One

The feeling of Deja Vu is powerful right now. I swear I'm sitting in exactly the same gate and seat as last time I waited for this flight. The mix of passengers is far more exotic than domestic flights, and agents are milling about not.

I've been keeping busy. It looks like we might have a nice logo designed and ready to go in the next day or two for Building Cambodia, Inc. I also think we will get our registration through with the Texas Secretary of State. Not a bad span of productivity for a travel day. Wait... what day is it again? Ug. The time shift is always brutal.

First Flight

And so it begins. The Austin to San Francisco flight is apparently a regional jet. You know the one. It's slightly larger than a Tylenol. I guess 4 hours won't be too bad compared to the rest of the flights.

2 Days to Go

With only 2 days left before I begin this year's adventure, I find myself in an almost surreal travel routine. I have almost everything lined up to pack except for clothes (which are always last). Should it really be this easy to journey halfway around the world?

On the incorporation front, it sounds like the Texas Secretary of State believes the company name "Building Cambodia, Inc." is substantially similar to "Building Texas, LLC." I would honestly be surprised if someone confused the two, but that's how it goes. I'm reaching out to those folks to get another form signed so we can continue to move forward with organizing our efforts.

Suture

This was a very productive week! Each year I try to fill my second suitcase with some type of donation that is hard to find in Cambodia. Some trips it's as simple as first aid kits, and one time I had surgical instrumentation. This year I found a medical supply organization called Global Links (http://www.globallinks.org/) that specializes in surplus suture donation. The Angkor Hospital for Children (http://www.angkorhospital.org/) listed suture as one of their needs, so I sent a few emails. In no time, I secured a large quantity of items that will help hundreds of children. It's incredible to me how easy it can be to make a significant difference in this world.

Administration

The past several weeks have been action-packed. In late March I met with Hem Heng, the Cambodian Ambassador to the United States. He was an informative and gracious host who helped give me insights into how acute-care medical services need attention in Cambodia. I was especially moved by how he could compare elements of our system here to the very basic infrastructure they have. For example: price. We pay a lot for healthcare and so do they. It's not surprising that people would try to cut corners where they feel they can save a few bucks.

This week I met with Deanna and Pat to plan for some administrative work. We want to make sure that our work in Cambodia has some longevity to it. Yes, a track record of over 10 years is impressive for a few people, but we want to do more. To help grow and improve our odds for long term success, we plan on incorporating under the name Building Cambodia and pursuing 501(c)(3) tax exemption status. This will make it easier for people to give money, add even more transparency to our work (as if vivid details about food poisoning interspersed with local mission work isn't enough!), and strengthen our cause. I have my best lawyers working on it now (thanks Rick).

I'm just over 7 weeks away from departure, so activity will begin to ramp up. My visa is purchased, flight booked, vaccinations verified, and work is lining up.

Booked for 2011

I purchased my ticket to Siem Reap this week. I'll depart July 9 and be on the ground in Cambodia July 10 (I arrive the evening before, but I'll go right to bed) and depart the evening of July 20. In this 10 day span I will focus on learning about emergency and acute-care medical services. I'm getting conflicting information, so this fact-finding trip will help me determine where I might be able to make a difference.

If anyone has an interest in going with me, now's the time to purchase a ticket and get your shots!